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Author: Kevin

A New, Old Way to Cool Air

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Air Conditioning. No Comments on A New, Old Way to Cool Air

Tim Thomas, VP Sales & Marketing, Culer, explains how a new space cooler works and saves energy.

One of the oldest ways of conditioning air is evaporative cooling, which cools air through the evaporation of water, rather than through the use of compressors and refrigerants.   Evaporative cooling is how cars of the early 1950’s were air-conditioned (see a previous post here).  A Nashville-based company called Culer has developed a new space cooler using a patented nozzle that combines water and air under low pressure to form extremely small particles of water.  When exposed to air, these water particles instantly evaporate and cool the surrounding air.  We interviewed Tim Thomas, VP of Sales & Marketing at Culer, to learn more.  Here’s how he explains how their space cooler works.

It takes a lot of energy to go from a liquid to a gas.  If you can cause evaporation, you are going to be very efficient at creating a cooling effect.   Air conditioners have to have a compressor to evaporate and then condense a refrigerant, so you are exchanging heat in a not very efficient manner.  Because it’s a closed system it takes a lot of energy.  We use a low pressure pump to run a small fan inside.  Then, by using very fine water particles in a concentrated air stream, we are able make evaporation happen immediately.  The magic happens in the nozzles.  Our nozzles are what I call hydro-pneumatic:  they introduce both water and air in the same nozzle.  Based on the geometry we call flow blurring, atomization occurs inside the nozzle, and when water exits, it’s already atomized.  It doesn’t just rely on the pressure behind it.

How can a Culer be used in a home to save energy?  The Culer AC home series as a complementary product to an existing whole house HVAC system.  Instead of setting your air conditioner at 78 degrees you could raise it to 80-82 degrees.  Then place the AC series product in the room you are occupying, to cool that specific area or zone that you are in, thereby saving money because you’re able to run your whole house system at a higher temperature.

There are several models of Culer products, each made for indoor or outdoor areas of different sizes. Our patented nozzles make our technology unique, and it is completely scalable. We can make products for the home all the way up to our professional unit, which includes six larger nozzles as well as a 30-inch fan that can handle up to 3,000 square feet and can be used in both indoor and outdoor locations. The features of the product are very simple. There is an on-off button and a control for a 3-speed fan.  The cooling effect activates the low pressure pump; this pressurizes the water which then goes up to the nozzle.  The dial in the middle allows you to fine tune the amount of water you introduce into the air stream.  For a very hot, dry environment you would set the dial to use more water, and for more humid areas you use less.  The port can be positioned up or down by 15 degrees, and rotated horizontally up to 180 degrees. To activate the unit, all you need to do is put one gallon of water in it.  For a single-port device, one gallon of water will last around 12 hours.  Pour one gallon of water into the fill port.  Put the cap back on and make sure it is sealed tightly as that tank will get pressurized.  It uses 12-volt DC power, which is compatible with any vehicle – whether it’s a boat, an RV, or a standard automobile or truck –  and you can simply plug it into that vehicle’s system.  The AC 200 has 2 ports and two atomizing nozzles that can be operated in independent directions, and costs only about 12-cents per day to operate.

Pre-Summer Checkup – Springtime Tips

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Maintenance. No Comments on Pre-Summer Checkup – Springtime Tips

After a long, cold winter, spring’s bright sun and warm temperatures are more than welcomed in Middle Tennessee.  But the hot summer weather is just a few weeks away and you can bet by then air conditioning repair technicians will be plenty busy!  It seems if your air conditioner is going to go out, it will do so when you need it most on one of the hottest days of the year!  Want to save money and all the hassle of an outage?  Have a pre-season check-up!  That means getting your spring maintenance visit scheduled in March or April, and getting your Fall Maintenance visit in Sept. or Oct.  To remember to schedule your pre-season check-ups, plan them around the time changes in the spring and fall.

Of course, there is really no substitute for a professional HVAC inspection, as some things a homeowner just cannot do for themselves when it involves air conditioning.  For example, refrigerants can be sold and installed only by certified technicians. Testing voltages and pressures within the equipment requires special gauges, etc.  But there are a number of very important things a homeowner CAN do for themselves.

5 Springtime Tips

1.  Check and replace your air filters.

There are several types from which to choose, depending on your needs.  We recommend buying the highest MERV rated filters to cut down on spring allergy symptoms. Turn off the power to the unit before pulling out the filter so the blower doesn’t come on and blow dust throughout the system. Vacuum up any dust in the air duct.  Orient the filter according to the instructions printed on it.  Replace the filter at least every 90 days, but check it monthly and if it looks dark or clogged, change it.  If you have pets, you may need to change your filters more frequently. Not replacing filters is one of the main reasons HVAC equipment begins to fail.

2.  Check and inspect the condensate drain.

The condensate drain line carries water condensation away from the evaporator coil, and if this becomes clogged or improperly connected to the rest of the drain system, your AC system can become flooded and you could have a very bad mess on your hands!  A plugged drain can cause water damage in the house (see real story below) and will cause your system to stop working. Check the condensate tube to make sure it isn’t clogged by sludge and algae, especially at the drain port. If it’s a flexible tube, it should be easy to pull off and clean.  Clean it with a 50% bleach solution.  Then, periodically throughout the season, pour a cup of bleach solution down the air-conditioner condensate drain to prevent buildup of mold and algae, which can cause a clog.  Watch our video on condensate drain maintenance here.

Real story:  We had one customer who had an air conditioning unit in the attic.  One day she walked into the bedroom to find it “raining” from the ceiling!  The condensate drain got plugged up and water overflowed, causing ceiling damage and requiring replacement of all the wet insulation in the attic.

If that customer had installed a float value and checked it periodically, they could have prevented the damage. If the condensate tube becomes plugged the pan will fill with water.  Lift up the float valve and it should shut off the unit and prevent an overflow.

3.  Clear vegetation around your AC compressor outside.

To work efficiently, the compressor needs good airflow. Prune any plant growth that could block it. Check to make sure there is at least two feet (24 36″) of clearance all around it.  Weekly during spring, summer, and fall remove debris such as leaves, pollen, and twigs from the top and sides of the outdoor unit. Don’t allow the lawn mower to discharge grass clippings onto the unit. If the outdoor unit is crowded by a fence or shrubs, or if the bottom few inches of the coil is buried under mulch, air-flow will be restricted, which decreases efficiency, reduces the life span, and damages the unit.

Tip:  When doing your spring planting, allow room for long-term growth, 5 to 10 years down the line. If building a fence, make sure it can be easily opened or removed. The unit needs to be serviced regularly, and the technician may need access to all sides of the unit.

4.  Check the outdoor unit’s foundation.

Ensure that the outdoor air-conditioning unit is on firm and level ground.  This is typically a concrete pad, but could also be plastic or rubber. Settling, erosion, flooding, or ice damage may occur throughout the year, causing the pad to crack, sink, or become unleveled.  This puts strain on coolant lines, and could bend or break copper or electrical lines, or cause water to puddle in the unit.  Before trying to level the unit yourself, contact a technician to properly disconnect the unit. Make sure the pad raises the unit out of the dirt and that there is adequate drainage around it, so that water does not pool near it during a hard rain.

5. Clean the condenser fins, coils and fan (the outside unit).

Dirty coils reduce the system’s ability to cool your home and cause the system to run longer, increasing energy costs and reducing the life of the equipment. The fan inside the condenser coil sucks air through the fins, and as a result, pulls dirt and debris with it. Fins are the fine metallic blades that surround the unit.  Clean the outdoor unit when the temperature is 60 degrees F or higher. Before cleaning it, be sure the power is turned off.  There may be a 240-volt power box near the unit which can be unplugged or turned off, or you may need to turn the power off at the circuit breaker. Using a garden hose, spray water on and through the unit, washing the dirt and grime off the fan and coils, cleaning the fins, and removing any debris like leaves or cut grass that may have become lodged in the unit.  If desired, you could also use a foaming coil cleaner (sold at most hardware stores), following the directions on the can.

Compressors can be fragile and so require special start-up procedures. First, make sure your inside thermostat is set to “off” (not in the “cool” setting).  Restore the power to the outdoor unit, either by plugging it in again or flipping the circuit breaker back on.  Wait 10-30 minutes before turning the thermostat into the “Cool” position. Listen for odd noises.

Tip:  If you switch off the air conditioner (at the thermostat) at any time, wait at least five minutes before switching it back on. Once off, the compressor needs time to “decompress.” If you restart it too soon, you’ll stress the motor. Many thermostats have automatic time delays built into the circuitry to protect the compressor from this problem.

The Payoff

Few routine chores will pay off more handsomely, both in comfort and in dollars saved, than a simple air-conditioner cleaning. The payoff: Summertime comfort and lower cooling bills. You’ll also prolong the life of your air conditioner.  Having a pre-season check-up is the best way to ensure your HVAC equipment is operating at peak performance, and the best way to prevent future problems and unwanted costs.

7 Things You Should Never Do

Written by Kevin on . Posted in Uncategorized. No Comments on 7 Things You Should Never Do

One of the reasons we write this HVAC News column is to empower you with information.  Many times that means telling you how to do things yourself to save money on your HVAC maintenance or energy bills.  But this time, we’re emphasizing a few things you should never do because they can be harmful or cause injury to you or your HVAC system.  As we always say, knowledge is power!

  1.  Do not cover your outdoor HVAC unit.  Many people falsely believe they should cover their outdoor unit to protect it from the elements, like rain and snow.  The only time it may be covered is if it’s turned completely off.  While the unit is on and operational, it must have good air flow all around it in order for it to operate, and you will damage the unit if you operate it with a cover on.  It’s ok for the unit to be located underneath an overhang, as long as there are no obstructions for about 3 feet all the way around it.
  2. Do not use a de-humidifier in the winter or a humidifier in the summer.  In the winter, the heat removes the air’s natural humidity, and the dry air increases static electricity, makes respiratory passages uncomfortable (aggravating allergy and asthma symptoms), causes itchy skin, damages the woodwork and wood flooring in your home (causing cracking/splitting), and increases your energy bills.  That’s why you want to use a humidifier (not de-humidifier) during the winter. Here in TN, we naturally have high humidity in the summer so it would be counter-productive to use a humidifier in the summer, plus it would increase mold and insects.  Air-conditioning helps you feel more comfortable in part by taking the excess humidity out of the air, and using a de-humidifier (not a humidifier) can help even more!
  3. Do not use your fireplace as your main heat source.  Some people think that in cold weather, it will help keep their house warmer if they use their fireplace in addition to their HVAC system.  This is dead wrong.  The fireplace causes already warmed room air to be sucked up the chimney and thus makes the house colder… and causes you to use more energy (increasing your utility bills).  The fireplace may be a nice touch for “ambiance” for a few minutes, but should not be used as the main heat source unless it is an emergency and all your heat and power is out.  Additionally, using the fireplace greatly increases indoor air pollution (particulate, soot, and toxic chemicals in the air), and can trigger allergies.
  4. Do not over-size your HVAC system.  When purchasing a new system, it is easy to think bigger is better, but not so when it comes to HVAC systems!  A properly-sized piece of equipment that’s not too large is going to work much more efficiently in maintaining better and more even comfort in your home.  Check out our previous post about this issue here.
  5. Do not ignore small issues like smells, sounds, leaks or minor heating/cooling problems.  These have a way of becoming big problems before too long, and the longer the issue persists, the more money it may wind up costing you.  Money Magazine recommends the best thing you can do to save money is have regular maintenance of your HVAC system twice per year.  Don’t bury your head in the sand and hope for the best.
  6. Do not block registers, air returns, or forget to change your air filters.  These are the number one reasons HVAC systems fail or have problems like uneven heating and cooling.  Set up a reminder on your computer or smartphone to change air filters a minimum of every 3 months. If you’re blocking registers in an effort to deflect air to the rooms that need it most, then read our post on uneven heating and cooling solutions here.  It’s better to get to the root cause of the problem than to deal with a symptom of the problem in this manner, as it will only harm your HVAC system and shorten its life if you block registers or air returns.
  7. Do not turn off your heat when leaving for vacation during the winter.  You may think you’re saving money by not running the heat when no one is home, but if your pipes burst from the freezing and thawing, you could be coming home to a very costly mess!  In fact, it’s a good idea to turn off the water to the house (via the main cutoff valve), and then open up all the faucets so there is no possibility of frozen pipes.  That’s because if the power goes out while you’re gone, the heat won’t work and, if the outage is prolonged, any liquid in the house could freeze anyway. Turn the icemaker off in your freezer and drain the water line, and drain the water from the toilet tanks.

12 Ways to Help Your Home Survive Extreme Cold

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It is not often that Nashville experiences extreme cold weather for several days in a row, so this year has been quite unusual in that regard.  Everyone is worried not only about staying warm, but the increased energy costs associated with the extreme cold.  Here are some tips that will ensure your home or business remains warm, and keeps your energy bills low, despite the frigid cold temperatures.

  1. Get a tune up.  The best defense against heating problems is to make sure your system is maintained year-round.  Having heating equipment serviced once before the heating season and once before the cooling season can reduce your heating bill and prevent costly repairs, breakdowns, and ensure your system is operating at peak efficiency.
  2. Clean/change the filters.  Dirty air filters reduce your system’s efficiency and thus can cause your system to work harder.  Replace air filters regularly a minimum of every 3 months – and do not block air inlets or outlets with furniture or drapes that restrict proper airflow.
  3. Use a humidifier.  During cold weather, increased use of your heater causes the home and its interior air to become dryer than usual.  A humidifier can help add needed moisture, and can also improve health issues like dry sinuses, while saving energy.  Since moist air holds heat, you may feel more comfortable at a lower heat setting.  Be sure you maintain the humidifier properly: clean or replace the filters regularly and wash the base and reservoir.
  4. Resist using the fireplace unless it’s an emergency.  Fireplaces can waste a lot of energy, as they pull warm air out of the house and force it out through the chimney.  Make sure the damper is closed when you’re not using your fireplace.  Installing glass doors can also help keep heat in your home when the fireplace is not in use.
  5. Use exhaust fans sparingly.  You lose heated air through exhaust fans, so turn them off when not in use during colder weather.  Not only do they pull heated air out of your house, but they can also cause negative pressure inside your home that can lead to back drafts from your fireplace and can cause drafts through the walls, windows and un-insulated outlets in your home.
  6. Prevent the drain line from freezing.  If you have a high efficiency furnace, there is a drain line that runs from the unit to the outside or into some kind of drain.  Know where that line is and make sure it is protected from freezing.  A frozen or plugged up drain line will cause your furnace to shut down.  If it does freeze, thaw it out (use a hair dryer, never an open flame!), turn off the breaker to your furnace, and turn it back on again to reset it.  It should fire back up.  If you see water around your furnace, chances are the drain line is plugged up at some point, and must be cleared.  Check out our previous post about condensate drainage here.
  7. Address non-HVAC-related air flow issues.  Close up any drafts, seal gaps and cracks around windows and doors (good weather-stripping or caulking usually does the trick), replace old windows or install window insulation kits, and look for places where heat may be escaping and/or cold air is rushing in.  Lack of adequate attic insulation is the main reason heating bills can climb sky high, so extra attic insulation is a good investment.
  8. Take advantage of natural heating.  On sunny days, adjust blinds so they are open and tilted toward the ceiling, but be sure to close the blinds at sundown.
  9. Be prepared for power loss.  In extreme cold, the power grid can get overloaded, and winter weather (snow and ice) can bring down tree limbs and cut power lines.  Keep candles, matches, blankets, flashlights, and a battery-powered radio handy.  When utilizing alternate heating sources, such as your fireplace or wood stove, take the necessary safety precautions.  Keep a fire extinguisher handy and test smoke alarms and carbon monoxide (CO) detectors.  Never run the fireplace without first opening the damper!
  10. Give the HVAC unit breathing space.  Do not store anything too close to your indoor HVAC equipment, and definitely do not store anything flammable – paint, paint thinners, rags, glues, gasoline, cleaning solvents, and other chemicals – near your gas furnace or gas water heater.  Not only is it a safety hazard, but HVAC systems need air in order to burn properly and to draft, or carry the harmful by-products of combustion out the flue.  So, remove the clutter.
  11. If you are going away for an extended time, don’t switch the heat off!  Leave it on a low setting to ensure nothing freezes.  Water pipes that break from being frozen cause major damage.  Have a neighbor check on your home while you’re gone.
  12. Carbon monoxide is deadly.  One of the biggest threats from the cold is carbon monoxide poisoning.  Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless gas that can kill quickly if it builds up in a home.  Symptoms are nausea, headaches and disorientation.  Carbon monoxide is produced by heating systems as a by-product of combustion.  Make sure your heating system is properly ventilated.  If you are heating up your car in the garage, make sure the garage door is open and close any access to your home.  If you find yourself stranded in your car, make sure your tailpipe is clear of snow, or the carbon monoxide can flow back into your car.

Are Register & Duct Fans a Solution for Uneven Heating & Cooling?

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Are some rooms in your home too warm or too cold?  Does one floor of your house get much warmer or cooler than the other?  Do you find that some vents blow lots of air while others – usually those farthest from the HVAC source – hardly blow much air at all?  No matter how you set your thermostat, does it seem there is always one (or more) room(s) of your house that don’t seem to get to the desired temperature? What can be done?

Special fans can help move more of the heated or cooled air already present in the ductwork into the desired room.  Fans on or in the ducts pull this conditioned air into the room, keeping it comfortable longer, so your furnace or air conditioner will run less often, lowering your utility bills.  But do they work?

Register Fans
Register fans also called in-floor booster fans are small fans that sit directly in or on the register(s) in the problem room(s).  A few kinds are pictured here.  They are easy to install and inexpensive usually less than $80 each. Some come in different colors, have their own thermostat, are multi-speed, or can be electronically controlled.  Most users of register fans find them noisy and prone to frequent failures/burnout.  They can also be a bit cumbersome since they have an electrical cord that needs to be plugged in (wires dangling across the room).  Most of these small fans are akin to the fan inside the typical desktop computer, and they are not rated with a high enough airflow (cfm cubic feet per minute) to really make a difference.  Some believe register fans further restrict airflow because the vent is now blocked by fans.  However, a few folks have found this simple solution helps.  At least it’s not too expensive to find out.

Mid-Duct Fan
A good alternative is installing a mid-duct fan also called an inline duct fan.  This is a large, heavy-duty cylindrical fan, taking up the entire width of the ductwork, e.g., they “replace” a section of ductwork. They are placed mid-way between the HVAC source and your problem room(s).   Your HVAC ducting must be accessible and exposed to install and work on it.  They require an electrical outlet or they can be hardwired, and require a relay back to the furnace.  So, you’ll need an electrician or HVAC professional for installation.  Inline duct fans are quieter than register booster fans, and cost $30-$150 each, depending on the size (note: you need to know the size and shape of your existing ductwork so you can pick the right-sized unit!), cfm rating, and features, plus a couple hundred dollars for the electrician.

Uneven Heating & Cooling
The solutions described above may fix the symptom of uneven heating and cooling, but it is always best to address the root cause of the problem.  Here are some of the typical things that may contribute to airflow problems:

  • clogged air filters,
  • air vents or dampers which are blocked by furniture or not opened fully,
  • return air registers that are blocked, cracks/leaks in windows and doors,
  • a dirty blower wheel and/or coil,
  • leaks in the ducts themselves due to peeling duct tape or holes made by plumbing or rodents.

If none of the above things is the source of the problem, you might need to address the problem in another fashion.

Often the biggest challenge is the return air – getting the stale air from the second or third floor back down to the furnace to be heated or cooled and redistributed.  In these cases, the best solution is adding returns or installing a thermostatically controlled zone system.

Having your air duct system professionally balanced might solve the problem and will improve comfort and efficiency.  But if your problem is due to poorly insulated rooms, or undersized ductwork, then no amount of balancing will fix the problem.

The bottom line is that the lack of proper airflow drastically reduces the efficiency of your heating and air conditioning system. Poor airflow decreases system performance, raises utility bills, and reduces equipment life.  It is best to find the root cause of the problem and address it.

HVAC Government Regulation

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Tony Anderson, Partner, discusses the new federal goverment regulations for home HVAC systems.

Effective January 1, 2015 all manufacturers of HVAC equipment can no longer manufacture 13 SEER equipment meaning that you can only buy a complete system with a 14 SEER or better rating.  Commercial HVAC systems are not subject to this regulation.

The repair on any piece of equipment is a personal decision. For example if you are going to stay in your home for the next five years and your eight-year-old 13 SEER HVAC, which uses the phased-out R22 refrigerant, needed a new blower motor, you may want to do that repair.  If you’re only going to be there a year or two, for sure you’ll want to repair it, rather than replace it.  But if you are going to be there for the long haul (10-15 years), you may consider replacing it with a new 14 SEER system that uses the new R410 refrigerant. You’ll get many better features: these newer systems are quieter, they have better blower motors, and the the whole works (compressor, bearings, etc.) are built better with higher efficiencies.

People ask why are we doing this?  It’s just like your car. Every time you look at the gas mileage ratings on cars, it continues to get better and better.  That didn’t naturally happen; it’s mandated by the government.  Same thing in our industry. Heating and air conditioning equipment would have remained at an 8 SEER rating if something better hadn’t been mandated.  Just during my career, the industry has gone from an 8 SEER to 10, 12, 13 and now we are at 14 as the minimum.  Check the yellow tags that come on your equipment to learn what the SEER rating is. These new regulations are good for the consumer because they mean lower utility bills, good for our industry because it forces continual innovation, and they are good for our environment because they consume less energy and deplete the ozone less while providing the same or better comfort level.

No Heat? What Should You Do?

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Something is not working quite right.  All you know is that it’s cold and your heat does not seem to be working as it should.    Listed below are some common issues, their common causes, and tips on how you may be able to fix the problem yourself, before contacting a service technician for repair.  This can save you time and money.

1.   Filter-related Issues

  • Dirty filters are the most common cause of heating (and cooling!) problems because they restrict airflow.  When the filter is clogged and the system can’t “breathe,” the heat exchanger will overheat and shut off too quickly, and your house won’t warm up. It also causes the blower to run hard and for long periods of time, with little heat coming out, and could shorten its lifespan.  Dirty filters also cause soot buildup in the system, reduces your system’s efficiency (thus costing you more money to operate), and shortens its life.  This is an easy solution: replace all filters. Be sure to check for the correct size (they are sold by size, not manufacturer).  Get the highest-rated ones you can afford to get the best indoor air quality and performance.  Important tip:  When you replace the filters, make sure the arrows on the filter are pointing towards the furnace (away from you).  Never try to skimp by vacuuming and re-using filters.
  • Listen for a whistling sound.  This is a sign that the system is not getting enough air, due to a clogged filter or obstructed airflow.  If you’ve already changed the filters and still hear the whistle, then there may be an obstruction elsewhere in the system. Check to make sure all the registers are open and unblocked.

2.   Thermostat-related Issues  

  • If the display on your thermostat is blank, it could be there is no power to the thermostat.  A tripped circuit breaker or fuse could be the problem, possibly caused by a power outage, power surge, lightning strike, or storm. Reset the tripped circuit breaker or replace the fuse. Make sure all the wires going to the thermostat are connected and not loose.  Useful tip: If you’ve lost your owner’s manual for your thermostat, most major-brand manuals can be found on the web-just go to the manufacturer’s web site.
  • Check that the thermostat is in heat mode. If it’s a programmable thermostat, switch it to manual control and set it for 5 degrees above the room temperature, and wait to see if the heat cycles on.   For programmable thermostats, check that it is set to the correct day and time (am or pm).
  • If your thermostat is battery-powered, or relies on battery for backup power in case of a power outage, it could be that the battery needs replacing.  If you have a programmable thermostat, and had a recent power outage, it could be that without a functioning battery backup, all of your settings have been wiped out by the power outage and the thermostat reverted to its default program.
  • If your thermostat has a switch to control the furnace fan, switch the fan “On” (as opposed to “Auto” or “Off”).  If you do not hear the fan coming on, go to one of the supply registers and see if you can feel any air coming out. If the fan is not running, there may be no power to the furnace.  If the fan runs, but the air coming out is cold, you have a problem with the furnace (or heat pump) itself.

3.   Electrical-related Issues

  • Check to see if the circuit breaker or fuse controlling the heating system is tripped or blown.  If a breaker has been tripped it will be in a position that is between ON and OFF. Reset the breaker by turning it all the way OFF, then back ON. If your home has fuses, check to see if the fuse for the furnace is blown. If so, replace it with the same size and type of fuse. Do not increase the size of the fuse. Important Tip:  If a breaker keeps tripping or a fuse keeps blowing, contact a qualified service technician to inspect your system to determine why you are having problems.
  • Check to see if the switch located near the heating unit is switched on.  This often looks similar to a light switch and easy to mistakenly turn off.  (In one house, the switch was mounted upside down, so the unit was actually “on” when the switch was in the “down” position!).  Useful tip: Most thermostats get their power from the same electrical circuit that feeds the HVAC system.  So, if your thermostat is not responding, turning on the switch by the HVAC may be the solution!

4.    Furnace-related Issues

  • Check to see if the pilot lot has gone out (if your furnace has non-electric ignition).  The solution is to relight the pilot light.  If you are unsure how to this, contact your gas service provider.  If the pilot will not light or stay lit, call a service technician.
  • Most furnaces today have electronic ignition switches rather than a pilot light.  If that gets stuck, try switching the furnace off, wait a minute, then switch it back on. If your furnace has a reset switch, press it. After another minute, you should hear the furnace fire up.
  • Make sure the gas is turned on.  Trace the gas line back from the furnace to the meter, and if there is a handle that’s perpendicular to the gas pipe, turn it so it’s parallel. There should be no obstructions or kinks in the gas line. Also, if you have other gas appliances and they are all working, then you know the gas line is on and not obstructed.
  • Some furnaces have emergency cut-off switches that are activated when a door or service panel is removed. If the furnace door is not closed properly (such as after a filter cleaning, or accidentally bumped open), the cut-off switch will prevent the furnace from coming on.  Check to make sure all access doors are properly closed and secured.
  • Make sure the exhaust line or flue is clear.  I’m not talking about the chimney flue in your fireplace, but the part of your furnace that exhausts to the outside, usually through a metal duct.  Sometimes birds, drawn by the warmth, build nests in it.  To clean it, you’ll need to turn off the furnace first.
  • High-efficiency furnaces can drain off several gallons of water a day during the heating season. If the drain lines become restricted by sediment or mold growth, the furnace will shut down. If the drain line is in unconditioned space, and the water in the line freezes, that, too, will cause the system to shut down.  Check the drain hose, and if it looks dirty, remove it and clean it with a mixture of 25% bleach + 75% water, and after flushing it for several minutes, replace the hose.

5.   Heat Pump-related Issues 

  • Check to see if the outdoor unit is covered in ice. It is normal for the coils to frost-over, especially if there is lots of moisture in the air (mist, rain, or sleet).  Your heat pump has a defrost cycle that normally melts this frost.  However, if the ice on the coils is extremely thick, never seems to melt, and only seems to get worse with time, then there could be a problem with the defrost cycle.  Try switching the system to “Emergency Heat” at the thermostat. Wait until the sun melts the ice off, then try turning the system back to “Heat.”  If you do not hear the heat come on, or if you hear loud noises, turn the system back to “Emergency Heat” (thereby shutting off the outdoor unit) and call for service.
  • When outdoor temperatures stay below about 35 degrees, it is normal for the backup or auxiliary heat light (usually a blue or green light) to come on. The colder the temperatures, the longer this light will stay on. But if the light comes on and stays on, even when outdoor temperatures rise above 35-40 degrees, then there is a problem with your outdoor unit and you’ll need to call for service.
  • Clean away leaves and debris around the outside unit that could be restricting the airflow.  Be sure the outside unit is not covered if you are trying to use it!

Never fear.  If none of these fixes your problem, we’re always here to help!

Case Study: Ductless HVAC at Brentwood Middle School

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Jeff Owens, Project Manager, describes the major project at Brentwood Middle School that installed a green, ductless, HVAC system expected to save 25%-30% of the energy previously required to heat and cool a large school building.

Objectives

Brentwood Middle School opened in August 1972.  It’s a large school with 1,250 students in grades 6 through 8. In 2014, it was named by thebestschools.org as one of the top 30 schools in theO USA.  Learning can be hampered by environments where students are distracted by noise, or in temperatures that are too hot or too cold. In 2013, it was decided that the 41-year-old school should replace its antiquated HVAC system.  They chose a system that would need no ducts for conditioned hot and cool air, would keep classrooms quiet, would let teachers control their individual classroom’s temperature, and would use no floor space for equipment.  The project required removing all the ceiling tiles, all lighting, all the old ductwork, all floor-mounted air handlers, and all roof-mounted equipment.  The work was done during two summer breaks so there was no need to close any classrooms.

Mitsubishi VRF

The system uses  a Mitsubishi VRF (Variable Refrigerant Flow) system. In each of the classrooms we have a ceiling cassette that takes care of this particular room and it’s thermostatically controlled by a white thermostat on the wall. The teacher can control the temperature in each room. Before there was one central thermostat controlling all the rooms.

Ductless

This is called a ductless system and you have no ductwork above the ceiling and you have four directional blowers with air flowing in four different directions in the classroom. There are approximately 74 units throughout the building.  Another good feature for these Mitsubishis is that they’re quiet – only 30-35 decibels. You can’t even hear the thing running in the classroom. It is very quiet unlike a conventional system. Each cassette is connected to a condensing unit on the roof. There are eight condensing units on the roof and each feeds 15-20 air handlers. There is a flow of refrigerant and as the system requires heating or cooling it will flow the refrigerant needed to heat or cool a particular room.  This is a two-ton capacity unit so it can use as much as 24,000 BTUs of refrigerant.

Fresh Air

Of course there has to be a way to bring fresh outside air into each classroom and that does require ducts and vents.  Reznor make-up units on the roof filter the air, and blowers pump the air to the vents. There are no return air ducts. The fresh air pumped in by the make-up units result in the rooms having a positive air pressure, which then exits through leaks around windows and doors.  There are five makeup air units on the roof that condition the outside air. 100% outside air goes in and is heated or cooled as required and then is directed into each classroom.

Energy Savings

As the sun comes up in the morning, one side of the building requires cooling while the other side does not. An energy management system determines which of the eight condensing units to run.  This saves energy. The energy used is being measured by the energy management system and is expected to be 25 to 30% less than the old system.  Data from the old system has been retained and in a year we should be able to report exact figures.

Say Goodbye to Cold Floors in Winter with Radiant Heating

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On a cold morning, just the thought of having your feet hit a cold floor makes you want to stay in bed! With radiant floor heat, even your dog will want to curl up on the bare floor rather than in your bed.  Radiant heat has benefits when compared with traditional convection heat. But what is it and how does it work?

Radiant heat elements in the floor, wall or ceiling warm the people and objects in the room rather than directly heating the air. You cannot see radiant heat energy but you can certainly feel it, and it just makes you feel more comfortable and cozy.  It works like sunshine.  When you’re outside on a sunny day, you may feel comfortable in short sleeves even if the air temperature is only 60 degrees. This is because of the radiant warmth from the sun.  Radiant heat lets you feel warm at a lower air temperature than conventional forced-air heat.  Plus, because there is no blower as with forced-air heat, there are no drafts.

Energy Efficient

It is estimated that radiant heat is not only about 30% more efficient than conventional forced-air systems, but provides a more even and continuous level of warmth.  Here’s why:

  • With radiant heating, the heating elements are near you in the floor or walls.  No ductwork is needed as part of the delivery system, and ducts are where some heat is lost.
  • Since radiant heating systems do not use blowers or fans, your environment stays quieter.
  • With radiant systems, heat stays near the floor where you are, and is not collecting near the ceiling.
  • Radiant systems easily provide room-by-room temperature control, or multiple separate zones, allowing more heat where you want it most.

Other Benefits

Besides saving energy, here are some other benefits of radiant heat:

  • Health benefits: European studies indicate that dust mite populations are reduced as much as 90% in radiant heated homes.
  • No humidification needed: Unlike hot air systems, radiant heat will not dry out your breathing passages.  Humidification is unnecessary with radiant heat because it does not alter the air moisture content.
  • Environmentally friendly: Radiant systems can run off of a variety of energy sources (gas, oil, wood, etc.), and can easily be interfaced to solar, geothermal, and other renewable energy sources. [For more information on environmentally-friendly systems, check out our LEED story.]
  • Flexibility: Radiant floor heating systems can be installed under any type of flooring, including wood, tile, laminate, concrete and carpet. Beautiful wood, marble or tile floors are even more enjoyable because they are now warm, and don’t need to be covered up with rugs to shield bare feet from a cold floor.
  • New construction or remodel:  Radiant heating can be customized for rooms of any shape or size, and can convert cold, damp areas into warm living space.  Add radiant floor heat in large lower-level rooms or basements that are almost uninhabitable during winter months, or a garage space being converted into living space. It works really well in a concrete slab, too.

Many Types

There are many types of radiant heating systems.

  • Under the floor or in the walls:  These are called low-temperature systems.  Since their heating surface is much larger, a much lower temperature is required to achieve the same level of heat transfer.
  • Radiant heating mats: These are ideal for spot heating, like shower floors or benches, and are safe for wet location installations.
  • Radiant heating room panels:  These can be hung on the wall (like artwork) and typically are glass or mirrored, and come in a variety of colors and sizes.
  • Overhead panels:  These have a lot higher surface temperatures, and can be found in production and warehousing facilities or sports arenas.  They boast the quickest response time of any heating technology.
  • Radiant heat can be used outdoors as well.  In cold climates, some folks have heated driveways or roofs so they don’t need to shovel snow or worry about the snow pack causing the roof to collapse.

There are two basic ways to supply radiant heat in floors or walls: hot water or electricity.  Electric radiant, which uses zig-zag loops of resistance wire, is ­generally retrofitted to a single room, such as a bathroom, kitchen, or added room, such as a converted garage. It can be used for spot installations and operate along with traditional forced-air heating systems used in the rest of the house. Hot-water “hydronic” systems circulate water from a boiler or water heater through loops of 1/2-inch flexible plastic tubing.  Hydronic systems are better suited for whole-house (rather than spot) installations.

What About Air-Conditioning?

Keep in mind, no matter what radiant heating system you use, you’ll still need a separate air-conditioning system for cooling.  Radiant cooling cannot be used in Tennessee because our high humidity would cause excessive condensation (not a problem for heating systems).  That means that although radiant heat does not use ductwork, registers or vents for heat delivery, you’ll likely still need these for a cooling system.

But with radiant heat, you can say goodbye to cold floors in winter! Radiant heating can be a comfortable, efficient, and reliable heating choice.

How Can I Make My Older Home Green?

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Eddie Hutton had this video produced to help homeowners learn how to save energy, improve the environment and make older homes go “green.”

Saving energy and helping the environment that’s what the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) is all about. They developed the LEED green building certification and rating system.    LEED is an acronym for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design.  The LEED ratings describe the degree to which a building reduces negative environmental impacts and improves the health and well-being of its occupants. There are four rating levels based on the number of points achieved: from Certified (which starts at 40 points), to Silver, Gold, and Platinum (which requires a score of 80 or more points).

LEED-H is the rating system used for homes.  There are many categories outlined in a scorecard, such as:

  • Location and Transportation: This includes proximity to a variety of transportation options, like bicycle paths and mass transit.
  • Sustainable Sites: This includes rainwater management, using natural land cover, and protecting nearby habitat.
  • Water Efficiency:  This includes reducing both indoor and outdoor water use, and tracking water consumption via water metering.
  • Energy and Atmosphere: This includes refrigerant management, energy metering, and optimizing energy performance by using renewable energy sources.
  • Material and Resources: This relates to the construction techniques, which must make use of environmentally-certified or recycled building products, sourcing raw materials locally or regionally, and reducing the amount of waste stored in landfills.
  • Indoor Environmental Quality: This covers things that affect air quality, lighting quality, acoustic design, and surroundings, such as ventilation, low-emitting materials, and making use of natural lighting and heating.

The scorecard also rewards things like innovation, adaptability, and regional (geographic) priority areas.

Is your home a candidate for renovation and a LEED-rating?  You know, LEED is not just for new construction!  Maybe you want to start small.  Perhaps your home has a detached garage you’d like to renovate to be used as a vacation rental.  After all, we hear that Nashville is a destination site for many travelers! Having a Platinum LEED rating would sure serve as a differentiator when marketing your rental!

Let’s look at ways a house could attain a LEED rating.  First is its location: ideally, it would be in a neighborhood with bicycle paths and an MTA bus route, and close to parks, downtown and shopping. Add a geothermal heat pump for the HVAC system.  That way you can use a desuperheater to capture waste heat to provide hot water.  LED lighting is an ideal way to reduce energy consumption because LED lights use only about 1/5th the power of incandescent lights, so the payback interval is shorter than any other energy saving approach. Plus, since LEDs don’t radiate heat like typical incandescent bulbs, they reduce the load on the home’s air-conditioning system.  Insulation is also very important in reducing the cooling and heating costs.  The best product out now is a soy-based spray foam insulation, which is not only eco-friendly, but is resistant to air, rodents, insects, mold, mildew, moisture and reduces sound transfer.

Download a copy of the LEED Scorecard and start your Green Home project today!